Needle Selection Guide
A reference for choosing the right cartridge configuration for every permanent makeup procedure
Every procedure has its own demands. The guide below matches XACTpmu cartridge configurations to specific techniques, helping you select needles that support your artistic goals. These are starting points based on common practices. Your technique, machine settings, and client's skin will always be the final word.
The Two Numbers That Matter Most
Every PMU needle configuration comes down to two key choices: how thick each needle is (diameter), and how many needles are grouped together (count). Understanding these two variables will help you pick the right cartridge for any situation.
Diameter is measured in millimeters and determines how much pigment each needle deposits and how much trauma it causes. Think of it like pen tips: a fine-point creates delicate lines, a broader tip lays down more ink.
#6 (0.20mm) — Finest. For nano hairstrokes, lash enhancement, and anywhere you need whisper-thin lines with minimal skin disruption.
#8 (0.25mm) — Versatile middle ground. Works for most brow work, eyeliner, and lip borders. The go-to for artists who want one diameter that handles multiple procedures.
#10 (0.30mm) — More pigment per pass. Better for oilier skin that tends to push pigment out, mature skin that needs stronger saturation, or shading work where you want efficient coverage.
#12 (0.35mm) — Maximum deposit. Primarily for scalp micropigmentation where you're replicating the appearance of thicker hair follicles and working on tougher skin.
The grouping number tells you how many individual needles are in the cartridge. More needles means more coverage per stroke, but less precision for fine detail work.
01 (Single Needle) — Maximum precision. Each stroke creates one fine line or dot. Essential for nano brows, lash line work, and SMP where you need complete control over every mark.
03 (Three Needles) — Balances precision with efficiency. Creates slightly thicker strokes than a single needle. Good for machine hairstrokes, eyeliner, and lip borders where you want definition without being painstakingly slow.
05 (Five Needles) — Shading territory. Covers more area per pass while still allowing controlled saturation. The workhorse for powder brows and lip blush.
07, 08, 09 (Seven to Nine Needles) — Efficient coverage for larger areas. Used in full lip color, ombré brows, and paramedical work where you need to build saturation without overworking the skin.
A SKU like 0803RLLT breaks down as: #8 diameter (0.25mm), 03 needle grouping, Round Liner configuration, Long Taper. Once you understand the pattern, you can read any SKU at a glance and know exactly what you're working with.
Eyebrows
Single-needle precision creates the thinnest possible strokes. The #6 (0.20mm) diameter works well on clients with delicate skin or those wanting barely-there enhancement. Long taper softens the entry; move up in diameter for thicker or oilier skin types.
The 3-round liner gives slightly more pigment deposit than a single needle while still producing fine lines. Useful for creating fuller-looking strokes that hold well during healing.
Shader configurations deposit pigment across a wider area, building the powdery saturation these techniques require. Point taper creates the softest gradients with minimal trauma.
You'll need both liner and shader cartridges during the session. Start with hairstrokes in the bulb, then transition to shading for the gradient effect.
Lips
Lip tissue is delicate and vascular. The curved magnum configurations excel here, laying down even color with less passes. Curved flat needles conform to the lip's natural contours for smooth saturation.
The larger curved magnums and curved flat configurations cover more area per stroke, reducing overall trauma while building solid color. Define the border first, then fill.
A 3-round liner creates clean, precise borders. The long taper softens the line for a more natural look rather than a harsh drawn-on appearance.
Eyeliner
This requires the most precision. Single-needle configurations let you work carefully between individual lashes. The #6 (0.20mm) diameter reduces trauma in this sensitive area.
The 3-round liner handles most classic liner requests. Use finer diameter for subtle definition, larger for bold lines.
Start with a liner for the base definition, then use a small shader to create the smoke effect. Long taper helps feather the edges.
Scalp & Paramedical
Single needles create the most realistic follicle impression. Diameter should approximate the client's natural hair thickness. Scalp skin can handle thicker gauges than facial work.
Requires liner work for the border and shading for realistic dimension. The larger curved configurations cover area efficiently while minimizing trauma to sensitive tissue.
Scar tissue behaves unpredictably. The curved flat configurations conform to uneven surfaces better than standard rounds. Build color gradually across multiple sessions.
Quick Reference by SKU
| SKU | Configuration | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| 0601RLLT | #6 (0.20mm), 01 Round Liner, Long Taper | Nano hairstrokes, lash enhancement, fine detail |
| 0603RLLT | #6 (0.20mm), 03 Round Liner, Long Taper | Fine hairstrokes, delicate eyeliner, lip liner |
| 0801RLLT | #8 (0.25mm), 01 Round Liner, Long Taper | Hairstrokes on normal skin, lash enhancement |
| 0801RLMT | #8 (0.25mm), 01 Round Liner, Medium Taper | SMP, crisp hairstrokes, oilier skin types |
| 0803RLLT | #8 (0.25mm), 03 Round Liner, Long Taper | Machine hairstrokes, eyeliner, lip borders |
| 1001RLLT | #10 (0.30mm), 01 Round Liner, Long Taper | Bold hairstrokes, thicker/oilier skin |
| 1001RLMT | #10 (0.30mm), 01 Round Liner, Medium Taper | SMP, defined strokes on mature skin |
| 1201RLLT | #12 (0.35mm), 01 Round Liner, Long Taper | SMP on coarse hair, bold single strokes |
| 1201RLMT | #12 (0.35mm), 01 Round Liner, Medium Taper | SMP, maximum pigment deposit |
| 0803RSLT | #8 (0.25mm), 03 Round Shader, Long Taper | Detail shading, smoky liner, lip border blend |
| 0805RSLT | #8 (0.25mm), 05 Round Shader, Long Taper | Powder brows, controlled shading |
| 1005RSPT | #10 (0.30mm), 05 Round Shader, Point Taper | Soft powder brows, ombré, gentle saturation |
| 1007RSPT | #10 (0.30mm), 07 Round Shader, Point Taper | Full powder coverage, large area shading |
| 0807CMLT | #8 (0.25mm), 07 Curved Magnum, Long Taper | Lip blush, even color distribution |
| 0809CMLT | #8 (0.25mm), 09 Curved Magnum, Long Taper | Full lip color, efficient coverage |
| 1005UCMT | #10 (0.30mm), 05 Curved Flat, Medium Taper | Lip work, scar camouflage, contoured areas |
| 1008UCMT | #10 (0.30mm), 08 Curved Flat, Medium Taper | Full lip coverage, areola, large contoured areas |
Configuration Types & Taper
Questions?
Every artist works differently. If you're not sure which configuration fits your technique, we're happy to talk through it.
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